The Pusher

Another classic problem goes down tonight, this time at the Wing Cave.
Mark and I went down to check it out yesterday, he gave me a tour of the cave and it looks like there is a shit load of stuff to try there!!

So from what I've been told, The Pusher was put up by Paul Westwood quite some time ago.
He originally graded it V14 but later on Chris and Tom down graded it to V12 which IMO is about right for this one....

For me personally this climb felt a little harder then Deep Blue Sea.
However the two climbs are very different and I wasn't feeling strong after working it the day before with Mark.

Big thanks to Mark and Fab for there support, couldn't have done it without them....

Manly Cave Sendage!!!

Rad night down at the Manly Cave!

Mattias and I took down the classic's of the cave and managed to get them on the cam... enjoy!!

Sunnyside Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk
Style of climbing: Steep

 

Click Here to Download Full Guide:

Description

Sunnyside boasts some of the hardiest roof problems in Sydney.  Although the cave is quite large in size the surface area for climbing is limited due to the lack of features and poor quality rock.

Unfortunately there isn’t a whole lot on offer at the cave and because of the difficulty of the problems the area doesn’t seem to see much traffic. Please keep noise to a minimum as the cave is situated rather closely to people’s homes.

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One of a kind

Well after more than ten visits to Sunnyside, one of my long standing projects has finally come to an end.
"One of a kind" was put up by Chris Webb Parsons in 2010 and has held the grade of V13 after three repeats!
Probably not one of best problems I've ever tried. However it did pose quite a large significance for me being the first of the grade and after 40 + hours of sieging I feel a great burden has been lifted.

Anyway, Mark has made a great video of the accent... Enjoy!

Weekend at the Grampians

Extreme Cool goes down at the Gramps, Hollow Mountain Cave...

Day at the Villas

Went down to have a play on the new line everyone's raving about at the Villas.

What a radical thing!! has everything you could want.

Crazy roof climbing, big dyno, dangerous topout and a super nails crux move!!!

Going to keep me busy I'm sure.......


Had a couple of goes on Contact as well and managed to get it on the camera, enjoy :)

The Sunny Side of Life

I got my first look at Sunny Side when the Smitten movie came out last year.
Tom Farrell, compressing his gorilla forearms up the face of Double Demerit, perhaps one of the hardest boulder problems in Australia!

So although the name suggest otherwise, I'd just like to point out that Sunny Side doesn't actually get any sun! We went between 10am - 2:00pm and had no problems climbing what so ever.

I looked online the night before and couldn't find any information about the crag.
It looks like due to the difficulty of climbing (all hard roof problems) and lack of access and information available on the interweb, this area doesn’t seem to see too much traffic, which is a shame really because IMO this might be one of the better areas to boulder in Sydney.

Right so anyway, some of the ECAT boys and myself went there on Saturday and shit went down!!!
Nam Tram put the cave classic (Combat Wombat) to rest pretty quickly and thanks to all his short man beta, I managed to pull it out off the bag myself :O!!!

From the looks of it, there isn't a whole lot to offer at this cave in terms of quantity, (maybe four established problems) but there all high quality and defiantly disserve the time of day.

So if your feeling strong, I would encourage you to head down there and see what Sunny Side has to offer. If like myself you love roof climbing then you won’t be disappointed :)

There is a couple of problems down there that i'm just busting to try ATM, so I might put together a guide for the area with some information on how to get there and the climbs that are available.

Check out this video by Mark Withers of the crag classic (Combat Wombat)

Happy Climbing!

Another one bites the dust!!!

Last Saturday I desided to come back to a long term project I'd given up on over a year ago....
J2, now one of the hardiest V12's in Sydney after the starting jug broke of back in 2008 resulting in a lower starting position making the first 3 moves significantly more difficult.

The first day on the problem didn't go as well as I had hoped it would.
The start was still nails hard and my beta to cut lose moving to a shitty left edge on the 3rd move made the climb feel much harder than anything I was currently capable of handling....

But after working the top section all afternoon and perfecting the dyno move, I left on good terms and returned to a week of slaving as an office bitch back in the system....

This weekend after traveling from my home in Sutherland all the way across shitty Sydney traffic to pick up Fab at Parra station, we were back at Jessica's super syked to send :)

Fab made short work of (This Way Out), his first V5!

And I was super fresh after taking two days off from climbing to prepare as best I could for the send.
I figured even with the hard start, if I can just stick it once the rest will be doable now that I've perfected the top dyno crux...

After warming up on sections of the problem, it only took two attempts and the job was done!!!
Check out the video I made of this classic Sydney boulder problem:

Wedderburn Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk

Style of climbing: Steep

Click Here to Download Full Guide:

Description

Just above the bank of Georges River, The Wedderburn Cave boasts some of the longest roof climbs in the Sydney area. 

Most of the bouldering is steep technical roof climbing with exciting top outs and is not a recommend area for people relatively new to climbing. 

The crag gets a little bit of sun during the afternoon and stays dry in wet weather, however all the top outs will be wet until the sun comes out.

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Epic day at St Helens Park Cave

This Saturday the crew from St Peters ventured down to St Helens Park Cave.

Mission objective... Crush as many problems as humanly possible in one day.

Not much else to say really.... the video speaks for itself :)




Crushers:               Problems:

Dan                       Lektra Ice V8
Cory                     Rogers Hitman V6/7
Byron                    Red Alien V11 FA
Malaya                  Style Cat V6/7
Byron                    NukProof V9
Cory                     Style Cat V6/7

If your interested in heading down to the cave for a boulder. Click Here to download the full guide.

We Have Contact!!!

Well another rad weekend out on real rock......
The weather has just been amazing lately and with good conditions brings the sweet sweet taste of sendage!!

I first tried Contact last Summer and had a really hard time sticking the crux..

It seems that allot of the climbs I'm coming across in Sydney these days just have one move, either you can pull it or ya can't.... it's as simple as that :/

This was one of those types of climbs and I just didn't have the power yet to hold that sloopy undercling pinch, with the summer humidity as well it felt impossible :/

So 6 months later some mates from St Peters are syked to go down and give Savage V8, the crag classic a good burn.
I figure this is a good opportunity to bench mark my training over the last 6 months and see where I stand.

Pulling the crux of Contact V12, on link for the first time....

Linking the final hard moves...

Linking the final hard moves...

Check out some of these's rad pics of Cory and Malaya working the Crux of Savage!!!
Cory got really close to the send, falling of the final tricky moves up the crimpy face, not bad for the first day on...

Malaya on the tricky crux of Savage V8!

Cory Martin Cook doing some sick Toe hook beta!

Cory Martin Cook on the burly Savage V8!

Cory Martin Cook on the burly Savage V8!

Red Alien Project

Red Alien, to the left of his brother Blue Alien (V10) is my current project at the moment, down at St Helens Park Cave.

The steep and powerful 6 move problem with a heart breaking finish is sure to keep my weekends occupied for quite some time I reckon :)

About half way in the video you can see some footage of the work in progress.

I've spent 2 days on it so far and only just pulled all the moves.

It’s still too early to tell but it might be around 11/12.

Anyway.. this boulder has got me super psyched and allot of time and preparation is currently going into my training to help prepare me for this amazing line!!!

Bonnet Bay Sendage!!

So I first tried this climb called The Cling Thing, about 6 months ago, shortly after coming back from my 3 month trip to the Grampians.....
The boulder is about 15 or so moves through a roof with the crux at the end, from a shit slopping RH pinch and a bad heel hook!!
It only took me one day to realize that this is a Winter crag only :/
The humidity made the problem so dam hard!!! that you couldn't even hold the slopping pinch, let alone pull of it.... and the mosquitoes!! OMG the mosquitoes.... I think I was scratching for about two weeks after that day....

Anyway like a dumass I decided to go down there again the following weekend and after an hour of bouldering and several tantrums I promised myself that I would not return till next Winter.

6 Months later I decide to give it another go, It honestly felt like a different climb.... It took about 2 hours with some sweet beta from Rob's video and the problem was done and dusted......

Check out this video of Rob Williams on the classic Cling Thing (V10):

St Helens Park Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk

Style of climbing: Steep

Click Here to Download Full Guide:

Description

Probably the best crag found so far near Georges River. This cave is full of classic boulders and will guarantee a fantastic day out whatever your climbing ability.

As you approach the area one thing you will probably notice is the vast amount of untouched rock just begging to be climbed!

The cave itself stays virtually dry no matter the conditions, but is however known to seep after an extended period of rain.

 

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Attack Mode 32

Check out this sweet video from Mike Fitz of my first 5 days on Attack Mode!!!

About Byron

Thanks for coming to have a look at my blog.
My names Byron, I live in lovely Sydney NSW and like most of you that are reading this blog right now, I have a complete obsession with climbing.... 

I’ve decided to create this blog because I love climbing and I want to record and share the things I get up to, as well as promote Sydney Bouldering and hopefully this blog will act as a valuable resource for guides, access and any new development that’s going on. 

Since I started climbing in Sydney I’ve notice one important but frustrating thing. 

Getting information about my local Climbing crags and Bouldering areas are a pain in the sandy vajayjay.. :/

Sydney is a big place and since the Sydney Bouldering Guide was released over ten years ago, not much has gone into documenting and setting up guides for newly established climbs, boulders and crags in and around Sydney

Allot of talented climbers have put huge amounts of effort into establishing great new boulder problems in Sydney over the last few years, but in some case's haven’t bothered to document them for other people to try and enjoy.

As a result, kids like myself and many of my mates have come along years later keen as mustard to try out climbs with outdated material and little knowledge of their own backyards :(

Now I’m not saying this blog is going to turn into a Sydney Bouldering Guide or some thing...
The idea is to keep track of development thats going on right now.

Any new areas I come across I will document and create guides for as well as bloging about everywhere I go climbing and the people I'm with.

So please feel free to comment below with any guide updates such as projects sent or newly discovered rock!

I'm always interested in checking out new areas ...

You can also email me: byronjg_89@hotmail.com

Thanks for reading and happy climbing :)