Thursday, 29 November 2012

Sunnyside Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk
Style of climbing: Steep

 

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Description

Sunnyside boasts some of the hardiest roof problems in Sydney.  Although the cave is quite large in size the surface area for climbing is limited due to the lack of features and poor quality rock.

Unfortunately there isn’t a whole lot on offer at the cave and because of the difficulty of the problems the area doesn’t seem to see much traffic. Please keep noise to a minimum as the cave is situated rather closely to people’s homes.



Wednesday, 28 November 2012

One of a kind

Well after more than ten visits to Sunnyside, one of my long standing projects has finally come to an end.
"One of a kind" was put up by Chris Webb Parsons in 2010 and has held the grade of V13 after three repeats!
Probably not one of best problems I've ever tried. However it did pose quite a large significance for me being the first of the grade and after 40 + hours of sieging I feel a great burden has been lifted.

Anyway, Mark has made a great video of the accent... Enjoy!


Thursday, 22 November 2012

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Day at the Villas

Went down to have a play on the new line everyone's raving about at the Villas.

What a radical thing!! has everything you could want.

Crazy roof climbing, big dyno, dangerous topout and a super nails crux move!!!

Going to keep me busy I'm sure.......


Had a couple of goes on Contact as well and managed to get it on the camera, enjoy :)



Monday, 10 September 2012

The Sunny Side of Life


I got my first look at Sunny Side when the Smitten movie came out last year.
Tom Farrell, compressing his gorilla forearms up the face of Double Demerit, perhaps one of the hardest boulder problems in Australia!

So although the name suggest otherwise, I'd just like to point out that Sunny Side doesn't actually get any sun! We went between 10am - 2:00pm and had no problems climbing what so ever.

I looked online the night before and couldn't find any information about the crag.
It looks like due to the difficulty of climbing (all hard roof problems) and lack of access and information available on the interweb, this area doesn’t seem to see too much traffic, which is a shame really because IMO this might be one of the better areas to boulder in Sydney.

Right so anyway, some of the ECAT boys and myself went there on Saturday and shit went down!!!
Nam Tram put the cave classic (Combat Wombat) to rest pretty quickly and thanks to all his short man beta, I managed to pull it out off the bag myself :O!!!

From the looks of it, there isn't a whole lot to offer at this cave in terms of quantity, (maybe four established problems) but there all high quality and defiantly disserve the time of day.

So if your feeling strong, I would encourage you to head down there and see what Sunny Side has to offer. If like myself you love roof climbing then you won’t be disappointed :)

There is a couple of problems down there that i'm just busting to try ATM, so I might put together a guide for the area with some information on how to get there and the climbs that are available.

Check out this video by Mark Withers of the crag classic (Combat Wombat)

Happy Climbing!




Sunday, 1 July 2012

Another one bites the dust!!!

Last Saturday I desided to come back to a long term project I'd given up on over a year ago....
J2, now one of the hardiest V12's in Sydney after the starting jug broke of back in 2008 resulting in a lower starting position making the first 3 moves significantly more difficult.

The first day on the problem didn't go as well as I had hoped it would.
The start was still nails hard and my beta to cut lose moving to a shitty left edge on the 3rd move made the climb feel much harder than anything I was currently capable of handling....

But after working the top section all afternoon and perfecting the dyno move, I left on good terms and returned to a week of slaving as an office bitch back in the system....

This weekend after traveling from my home in Sutherland all the way across shitty Sydney traffic to pick up Fab at Parra station, we were back at Jessica's super syked to send :)

Fab made short work of (This Way Out), his first V5!

And I was super fresh after taking two days off from climbing to prepare as best I could for the send.
I figured even with the hard start, if I can just stick it once the rest will be doable now that I've perfected the top dyno crux...

After warming up on sections of the problem, it only took two attempts and the job was done!!!
Check out the video I made of this classic Sydney boulder problem:







Wednesday, 27 June 2012

Wedderburn Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk
Style of climbing: Steep



Description
Just above the bank of Georges River, The Wedderburn Cave boasts some of the longest roof climbs in the Sydney area. 
Most of the bouldering is steep technical roof climbing with exciting top outs and is not a recommend area for people relatively new to climbing. 
The crag gets a little bit of sun during the afternoon and stays dry in wet weather, however all the top outs will be wet until the sun comes out.



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