Day at the Villas

Went down to have a play on the new line everyone's raving about at the Villas.

What a radical thing!! has everything you could want.

Crazy roof climbing, big dyno, dangerous topout and a super nails crux move!!!

Going to keep me busy I'm sure.......


Had a couple of goes on Contact as well and managed to get it on the camera, enjoy :)

The Sunny Side of Life

I got my first look at Sunny Side when the Smitten movie came out last year.
Tom Farrell, compressing his gorilla forearms up the face of Double Demerit, perhaps one of the hardest boulder problems in Australia!

So although the name suggest otherwise, I'd just like to point out that Sunny Side doesn't actually get any sun! We went between 10am - 2:00pm and had no problems climbing what so ever.

I looked online the night before and couldn't find any information about the crag.
It looks like due to the difficulty of climbing (all hard roof problems) and lack of access and information available on the interweb, this area doesn’t seem to see too much traffic, which is a shame really because IMO this might be one of the better areas to boulder in Sydney.

Right so anyway, some of the ECAT boys and myself went there on Saturday and shit went down!!!
Nam Tram put the cave classic (Combat Wombat) to rest pretty quickly and thanks to all his short man beta, I managed to pull it out off the bag myself :O!!!

From the looks of it, there isn't a whole lot to offer at this cave in terms of quantity, (maybe four established problems) but there all high quality and defiantly disserve the time of day.

So if your feeling strong, I would encourage you to head down there and see what Sunny Side has to offer. If like myself you love roof climbing then you won’t be disappointed :)

There is a couple of problems down there that i'm just busting to try ATM, so I might put together a guide for the area with some information on how to get there and the climbs that are available.

Check out this video by Mark Withers of the crag classic (Combat Wombat)

Happy Climbing!

Another one bites the dust!!!

Last Saturday I desided to come back to a long term project I'd given up on over a year ago....
J2, now one of the hardiest V12's in Sydney after the starting jug broke of back in 2008 resulting in a lower starting position making the first 3 moves significantly more difficult.

The first day on the problem didn't go as well as I had hoped it would.
The start was still nails hard and my beta to cut lose moving to a shitty left edge on the 3rd move made the climb feel much harder than anything I was currently capable of handling....

But after working the top section all afternoon and perfecting the dyno move, I left on good terms and returned to a week of slaving as an office bitch back in the system....

This weekend after traveling from my home in Sutherland all the way across shitty Sydney traffic to pick up Fab at Parra station, we were back at Jessica's super syked to send :)

Fab made short work of (This Way Out), his first V5!

And I was super fresh after taking two days off from climbing to prepare as best I could for the send.
I figured even with the hard start, if I can just stick it once the rest will be doable now that I've perfected the top dyno crux...

After warming up on sections of the problem, it only took two attempts and the job was done!!!
Check out the video I made of this classic Sydney boulder problem:

Wedderburn Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk

Style of climbing: Steep

Click Here to Download Full Guide:

Description

Just above the bank of Georges River, The Wedderburn Cave boasts some of the longest roof climbs in the Sydney area. 

Most of the bouldering is steep technical roof climbing with exciting top outs and is not a recommend area for people relatively new to climbing. 

The crag gets a little bit of sun during the afternoon and stays dry in wet weather, however all the top outs will be wet until the sun comes out.

View Larger Map

Click Here to Download Full Guide:

Epic day at St Helens Park Cave

This Saturday the crew from St Peters ventured down to St Helens Park Cave.

Mission objective... Crush as many problems as humanly possible in one day.

Not much else to say really.... the video speaks for itself :)




Crushers:               Problems:

Dan                       Lektra Ice V8
Cory                     Rogers Hitman V6/7
Byron                    Red Alien V11 FA
Malaya                  Style Cat V6/7
Byron                    NukProof V9
Cory                     Style Cat V6/7

If your interested in heading down to the cave for a boulder. Click Here to download the full guide.

We Have Contact!!!

Well another rad weekend out on real rock......
The weather has just been amazing lately and with good conditions brings the sweet sweet taste of sendage!!

I first tried Contact last Summer and had a really hard time sticking the crux..

It seems that allot of the climbs I'm coming across in Sydney these days just have one move, either you can pull it or ya can't.... it's as simple as that :/

This was one of those types of climbs and I just didn't have the power yet to hold that sloopy undercling pinch, with the summer humidity as well it felt impossible :/

So 6 months later some mates from St Peters are syked to go down and give Savage V8, the crag classic a good burn.
I figure this is a good opportunity to bench mark my training over the last 6 months and see where I stand.

Pulling the crux of Contact V12, on link for the first time....

Linking the final hard moves...

Linking the final hard moves...

Check out some of these's rad pics of Cory and Malaya working the Crux of Savage!!!
Cory got really close to the send, falling of the final tricky moves up the crimpy face, not bad for the first day on...

Malaya on the tricky crux of Savage V8!

Cory Martin Cook doing some sick Toe hook beta!

Cory Martin Cook on the burly Savage V8!

Cory Martin Cook on the burly Savage V8!

Red Alien Project

Red Alien, to the left of his brother Blue Alien (V10) is my current project at the moment, down at St Helens Park Cave.

The steep and powerful 6 move problem with a heart breaking finish is sure to keep my weekends occupied for quite some time I reckon :)

About half way in the video you can see some footage of the work in progress.

I've spent 2 days on it so far and only just pulled all the moves.

It’s still too early to tell but it might be around 11/12.

Anyway.. this boulder has got me super psyched and allot of time and preparation is currently going into my training to help prepare me for this amazing line!!!