Tuesday, 8 January 2013

New Boulder Near The Wing Cave!!


With the Christmas holidays on I had some spare time to go searching for new lines around the Wing Cave and Menai area.

Just over the right side of the riverbed about 100 meters pass The Wing Cave is a 5m high 45 degree overhanging highball boulder.

This amazing piece of stone has some great features with a side pull rail running straight up the middle parallel to the sides of the boulder.

It then leads into a scary slopping mantel topout which will leave you feeling full of adrenaline and horrified at the same time!!!

(WARNING) BRING A CHANGE OF UNDERWEAR AS SHITTING YOUR PANTIES IS A HIGH POSSIBILITY!!

Its also recommended that you take at least 3-5 boulder pads and a good spotter because of the landing and height of this thing.

The boulder boasts two lines:
  • Danger Zone V8 (on the right side)
  • Nek Minnit V4 (on the left side)
Eddie Fowke came along to get some sweet photos of the boulder in progress, as well as lending a spot when the shit hit the fan :)





             Starting holds to the Danger Zone V8

             Climbing through the parallel side pulls running straight up the middle of the boulder problem.


             Approaching the slopping topout also known as the Danger Zone!!!!


Sunday, 9 December 2012

The Pusher

Another classic problem goes down tonight, this time at the Wing Cave.
Mark and I went down to check it out yesterday, he gave me a tour of the cave and it looks like there is a shit load of stuff to try there!!

So from what I've been told, The Pusher was put up by Paul Westwood quite some time ago.
He originally graded it V14 but later on Chris and Tom down graded it to V12 which IMO is about right for this one....

For me personally this climb felt a little harder then Deep Blue Sea.
However the two climbs are very different and I wasn't feeling strong after working it the day before with Mark.

Big thanks to Mark and Fab for there support, couldn't have done it without them....





Friday, 7 December 2012

Manly Cave Sendage!!!

Rad night down at the Manly Cave!

Mattias and I took down the classic's of the cave and managed to get them on the cam... enjoy!!




Thursday, 29 November 2012

Sunnyside Cave

Approach time: 10 Minute Walk
Style of climbing: Steep

 

Click Here to Download Full Guide:

Description

Sunnyside boasts some of the hardiest roof problems in Sydney.  Although the cave is quite large in size the surface area for climbing is limited due to the lack of features and poor quality rock.

Unfortunately there isn’t a whole lot on offer at the cave and because of the difficulty of the problems the area doesn’t seem to see much traffic. Please keep noise to a minimum as the cave is situated rather closely to people’s homes.



Wednesday, 28 November 2012

One of a kind

Well after more than ten visits to Sunnyside, one of my long standing projects has finally come to an end.
"One of a kind" was put up by Chris Webb Parsons in 2010 and has held the grade of V13 after three repeats!
Probably not one of best problems I've ever tried. However it did pose quite a large significance for me being the first of the grade and after 40 + hours of sieging I feel a great burden has been lifted.

Anyway, Mark has made a great video of the accent... Enjoy!


Thursday, 22 November 2012

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Day at the Villas

Went down to have a play on the new line everyone's raving about at the Villas.

What a radical thing!! has everything you could want.

Crazy roof climbing, big dyno, dangerous topout and a super nails crux move!!!

Going to keep me busy I'm sure.......


Had a couple of goes on Contact as well and managed to get it on the camera, enjoy :)