Training

Psyched to train??? Why not give my program a go :)

My Training Program

This is the basic layout of my current training program.
When I'm psyched to climb/boulder hard I will follow this program religiously.

If I'm not that psyched due to lack of motivation or injury's I will just climb and enjoy myself but still do enough to maintain my current level.

3 days a week in the Gym, 2 days Outdoor Climbing.
  • Day 1 (Monday) Warm up, 60 minutes Campus, Core, Hangboard/Lock of Training, 60 minutes Bouldering and 30 Minutes Stretching.
  • Day 2 (Tuesday) First warm up then 60 minutes power Bouldering, 60 minutes power endurance bouldering, 15 Minutes Core, 30-45 minutes stretching.
  • Day 3 (Wednesday) Rest Day
  • Day 4 (Thursday) First warm up then 60 minutes power Bouldering, 60 minutes power endurance Bouldering, 15 Minutes Core, 30-45 minutes stretching.
  • Day 5 (Friday) Rest Day
  • Day 6 (Saturday) Outdoor Bouldering, normally working a project something at my limit.
  • Day 7 (Sunday) Sometimes the same as Saturday. If I'm really tired I'll still go outdoor but won't have a big day.
  • On rest days (Wednesday - Friday) I will stretch for 30 minutes a day and do 15 minutes of core work outs.
When I want to work a lead climb my training doesn't normally change very much, I might get on Indoor lead routes on Day2 and use Day 6 and 7 working the climb which builds endurance anyway.

I find that when I don't lead climb for a while, my endurance becomes really shit really fast. But as soon as I start working a route I'm interested in, my endurance comes back within 5-8 lead sessions in or outdoors.

For me Endurance is simple, it comes fast and goes even faster, so I never train it unless I'm working on a lead project at that point in time.

Pure Power/Power Endurance on the other hand builds over a long period of time and is relatively easy to maintain so that's what I have been always focused on.
 

Guides I Follow:

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