Sunday, 1 July 2012

Another one bites the dust!!!

Last Saturday I desided to come back to a long term project I'd given up on over a year ago....
J2, now one of the hardiest V12's in Sydney after the starting jug broke of back in 2008 resulting in a lower starting position making the first 3 moves significantly more difficult.

The first day on the problem didn't go as well as I had hoped it would.
The start was still nails hard and my beta to cut lose moving to a shitty left edge on the 3rd move made the climb feel much harder than anything I was currently capable of handling....

But after working the top section all afternoon and perfecting the dyno move, I left on good terms and returned to a week of slaving as an office bitch back in the system....

This weekend after traveling from my home in Sutherland all the way across shitty Sydney traffic to pick up Fab at Parra station, we were back at Jessica's super syked to send :)

Fab made short work of (This Way Out), his first V5!

And I was super fresh after taking two days off from climbing to prepare as best I could for the send.
I figured even with the hard start, if I can just stick it once the rest will be doable now that I've perfected the top dyno crux...

After warming up on sections of the problem, it only took two attempts and the job was done!!!
Check out the video I made of this classic Sydney boulder problem:







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